1964 Beetle big makeover - Page 5




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  1. #81
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Loks good so far keep it up

  2. #82
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Done for now. Spent R15000. I kept every thing original. I still need to give the brakes some attention as it still looses some pressure and the front right bites too much.
    Choose life

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  4. #83
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    It looks very very nice! Very nice indeed. You did good to that Kewer. Did you enjoy the project?
    1993 Samurai. 2004 Jeep TJ Sport. V8 Lexus VVTi.

  5. #84
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Looking good!
    Cheers,
    John

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  6. #85
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    That looks very nice! Enjoy the car. I need to get started on mine pretty soon.. has more work though than this...
    Anton



    "At the end of the game, the King and the pawn go back into the same box." - Italian Proverb
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  7. #86
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Looking stunning, well done. Cleaned up that light green is beautiful, very classy.

    In that nice condition it must be worth a fair bit now?

    I've noticed beatles, especially old volksie buses are selling for stupid prices these days, fair condition buses seem to go for over R100,000, beatles easy over R50k in nice condition, especially popular in hipster capetown.

  8. #87
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    That is a job well done, car looks stunning now, well worth all the effort
    VW Touareg V6 Tdi
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  9. #88
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Well done Coenoes, especially keeping it original. Why don't you drive it down to the Piston Ring Club next sunday. There's normally a lot of Beetles there and the guys would appreciate seeing it. I will also be there in my 1966 totally original Beetle.
    Nico
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  10. #89
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Thanks everyone. I realy enjoyed it. More so because it was my dad's first car and because he loved caring for it. Did a short drive thus afternoon and it felt great.
    I will have to get the brakes better end engine seems to be running a bit too hot.
    Choose life

  11. #90
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Very nicely done.

    On the brakes I would highly recommend replacing the rubber pipes going from the metal pipes to the different wheels. They do deteriorate and the inner lining swells with age giving uneven braking but worse than that, they will, at the most inopportune time either block in the "on" position or balloon and offer no braking performance at all. I have experienced both scenarios; brown trousers would have come in handy.

    Also keep in mind the braking system has a single circuit master cylinder. If one seal or pipe fails, you will have NO brakes. Service/ replace the master cylinder whilst you are busy with the brake pipes. Both items on this list are not very expensive.

    VW Type 1 engines overheat for the following reasons:

    Missing engine tins. ALL tins must be present. Those engineers knew what they were doing.

    Rubber engine seal. This is the seal that wraps around the engine bay. It must be installed and it must seal effectively to prevent hot air from the bottom of the engine entering the engine bay.

    Debris/ mud clogging cylinder cooling fins. Ensure the cylinders are clean and free of debris/ mud.

    Clogged/ blocked oil cooler. Part of the design of the engine is that it is also oil cooled. A lot of the engine heat is transferred into the engine oil which is cooled to the largest extent by the oil cooler. A blocked oil cooler is terrible for the engine.

    Wrong paint. NEVER, EVER paint any part of the engine with a "High Heat" paint, especially the cylinders, tins and tappet covers. "High Heat" paint insulates the engine and keeps in heat.

    Things you should seriously consider adding:

    The Nr.1 addition I would recommend you put onto this vehicle is a full flow oil filter. The screen at the bottom of the sump is simply not good enough and I probably don't need to tell you this but 40HP parts are miserably expensive, a good engine rebuild will leave little if any change from R25k provided the block is salvageable.

    Things you should really consider doing:
    A valve job. Relatively cheap but brings an engine back to life. Whilst you are busy, have the engineering shop install hardened valve seats to make your vehicle compatible with unleaded fuel.
    2015 Mahindra Bolero SC 2.5 NEF TCI 4x4 (Ratchet & Clank)
    2007 Mercedes Benz ML500 5.5
    1968 VW Beetle 2276

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  13. #91
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    It is VERY easy to get the timing wrong.
    The number 3 cylinder's timing is slightly retarded to take the oil cooler heat in account
    If, by accident you use number 3 to set the timing instead of number 1 everything is out
    boxer motor overheats when timing is out

  14. #92
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Maartendeneef View Post
    It is VERY easy to get the timing wrong.
    The number 3 cylinder's timing is slightly retarded to take the oil cooler heat in account
    How in the world is that managed on a non ECU controlled engine?
    Are you sure about this? Not trying to pick an argument, I'm honestly piqued.
    I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why I'm right!

  15. #93
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Francois Theron View Post
    How in the world is that managed on a non ECU controlled engine?
    Are you sure about this? Not trying to pick an argument, I'm honestly piqued.
    While I don't know for certain but uneven spacing on a distributor cap with a fixed position and a number 1 wire should be able to accommodate this (ie no 3 wire is 1 or so further away).
    Last edited by locklaw; 1 Week Ago at 01:58 PM.

  16. #94
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by locklaw View Post
    While I don't know for certain but uneven spacing on a distributor cap with a fixed position and a number 1 wire should be able to accommodate this (ie no 3 wire is 1 or so further away).
    Yeah I thought about this but can't recall ever having heard about it. And it means you always have to use the same positions on the cap for the same wires.
    I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why I'm right!

  17. #95
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    All the dizzys had a position they had to be in. Yes you could butcher it to work, if the thing was in wrong. But if the dizzy was in the right way, you could have that lobe on the cam slightly moved. If the dizzy is wrong and you butchered the wire, then the wrong plug would get that retardation.

    But I doubt the lobes were ever cut to accommodate a retardation on 1 plug.
    LC 78 Troopie 1HD-FTE

  18. #96
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Koebelwagen View Post
    Very nicely done.

    On the brakes I would highly recommend replacing the rubber pipes going from the metal pipes to the different wheels. They do deteriorate and the inner lining swells with age giving uneven braking but worse than that, they will, at the most inopportune time either block in the "on" position or balloon and offer no braking performance at all. I have experienced both scenarios; brown trousers would have come in handy.

    Also keep in mind the braking system has a single circuit master cylinder. If one seal or pipe fails, you will have NO brakes. Service/ replace the master cylinder whilst you are busy with the brake pipes. Both items on this list are not very expensive.

    VW Type 1 engines overheat for the following reasons:

    Missing engine tins. ALL tins must be present. Those engineers knew what they were doing.

    Rubber engine seal. This is the seal that wraps around the engine bay. It must be installed and it must seal effectively to prevent hot air from the bottom of the engine entering the engine bay.

    Debris/ mud clogging cylinder cooling fins. Ensure the cylinders are clean and free of debris/ mud.

    Clogged/ blocked oil cooler. Part of the design of the engine is that it is also oil cooled. A lot of the engine heat is transferred into the engine oil which is cooled to the largest extent by the oil cooler. A blocked oil cooler is terrible for the engine.

    Wrong paint. NEVER, EVER paint any part of the engine with a "High Heat" paint, especially the cylinders, tins and tappet covers. "High Heat" paint insulates the engine and keeps in heat.

    Things you should seriously consider adding:

    The Nr.1 addition I would recommend you put onto this vehicle is a full flow oil filter. The screen at the bottom of the sump is simply not good enough and I probably don't need to tell you this but 40HP parts are miserably expensive, a good engine rebuild will leave little if any change from R25k provided the block is salvageable.

    Things you should really consider doing:
    A valve job. Relatively cheap but brings an engine back to life. Whilst you are busy, have the engineering shop install hardened valve seats to make your vehicle compatible with unleaded fuel.
    Thanks for the info. Can you maybe recommend someone who can nurse the engine a bit for me?
    Choose life

  19. #97
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Henris View Post
    All the dizzys had a position they had to be in. Yes you could butcher it to work, if the thing was in wrong. But if the dizzy was in the right way, you could have that lobe on the cam slightly moved. If the dizzy is wrong and you butchered the wire, then the wrong plug would get that retardation.

    But I doubt the lobes were ever cut to accommodate a retardation on 1 plug.
    the adjustment is in the cap
    no butchering required
    ht leads just placed wrong

    beetle has an upright oil cooler
    the 411 variant had a flat horizontal cooler which had a bigger impact on number 3 cylinder, which is partly why the 411 cooked motors more than the other boxer applications
    Last edited by Maartendeneef; 1 Week Ago at 09:50 AM.

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    meh

  21. #98
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Coenoes View Post
    Thanks for the info. Can you maybe recommend someone who can nurse the engine a bit for me?
    I really don't know who to recommend as I do all the work on my vehicle myself. Beetles are ridiculously easy to work on, all you need is a good workshop manual and basic set of tools.
    2015 Mahindra Bolero SC 2.5 NEF TCI 4x4 (Ratchet & Clank)
    2007 Mercedes Benz ML500 5.5
    1968 VW Beetle 2276

  22. #99
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    Default Re: 1964 Beetle big makeover

    Quote Originally Posted by Maartendeneef View Post
    It is VERY easy to get the timing wrong.
    The number 3 cylinder's timing is slightly retarded to take the oil cooler heat in account
    If, by accident you use number 3 to set the timing instead of number 1 everything is out
    boxer motor overheats when timing is out
    Quote Originally Posted by Francois Theron View Post
    How in the world is that managed on a non ECU controlled engine?
    Are you sure about this? Not trying to pick an argument, I'm honestly piqued.
    Quote Originally Posted by locklaw View Post
    While I don't know for certain but uneven spacing on a distributor cap with a fixed position and a number 1 wire should be able to accommodate this (ie no 3 wire is 1 or so further away).
    Quote Originally Posted by Henris View Post
    All the dizzys had a position they had to be in. Yes you could butcher it to work, if the thing was in wrong. But if the dizzy was in the right way, you could have that lobe on the cam slightly moved. If the dizzy is wrong and you butchered the wire, then the wrong plug would get that retardation.

    But I doubt the lobes were ever cut to accommodate a retardation on 1 plug.
    Original distributors' lobes were cut to compensate for the Nr 3 cylinder. It has nothing to do with the cap which goes on only one way in any event. You can only install the dizzy one way as the tab at the bottom of the drive shaft which goes into the slot of the worm gear is off-centre. The real tricky bit involves the worm gear that is run off the crankshaft, if this comes out when you remove the dizzy you are in for a world of swearing getting it back in the correct position. Same is true when you reassemble the engine after a total rebuild.
    2015 Mahindra Bolero SC 2.5 NEF TCI 4x4 (Ratchet & Clank)
    2007 Mercedes Benz ML500 5.5
    1968 VW Beetle 2276

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