Poor mans diff lock




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  1. #1
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    Default Poor mans diff lock

    A few days ago I was day dreaming and wondered what if you had control over each wheel brake independently. Manual traction control.
    If you coud control each wheel that would add the possibility of locking each wheel independently or all at once. Hill start assist. The devive is called a brake line lock if you would like to read up on it. Drag racers use it to prevent line rolling, some use it to lock front wheels for burnouts. It utilizes a solenoid to open and close a brake line and it is up to you to decide if you want to lock pressure in or out. All controlled with normal brake pedal and a few swithes.
    By playing with pressures you can create your own hill decent control by braking the front wheels manually and by locking the rear wheels at a set pressure determined by your foot and vice versa.

  2. #2
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    Totally illegal in a road-going vehicle but some people have done exactly what you discuss for off-road comp vehicles.
    2012 Jeep Sahara Unlimited 3.6 V6
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  3. #3
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    I have been told the Chev Nomad had independent hand brakes to brake the rear wheels depending on which one lost traction.
    Pieter
    ------
    2008 Fortuner 3.0 D-4D 4x4

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    It is called 'cutting brake'. It either works with cables or with a hydraulic system of valves.
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    1993 Samurai. 2004 Jeep TJ Sport. V8 Lexus VVTi. - Frankenjeep.
    I'm not a nice person.

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    Western Cape Challenge Club had a separate class for such vehicles. This is the best pic I could find of Klaus' car. It had the 'fiddle brakes' plus front & rear steering too. It drove anywhere.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarOne View Post
    I have been told the Chev Nomad had independent hand brakes to brake the rear wheels depending on which one lost traction.
    The Chev Nomad had a limited slip diff installed and that was a fresh approach from Chev in the time when diff locks or limited slip diffs were unheard of in normal vehicles

    Triton DC, Jimny and K1200GT scooter.

  7. #7
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    In the 60s and 70s fiddle brakes were popular in beetles for gymkhanas

  8. #8
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    Cutting brakes only work effectively at low speeds, to have a proper cutting brake setup will cost you almost the same as an auto locker and not nearly work as great.
    If you want this for your Chevy, Detroit locker is what you want.
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  9. #9
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    On our 2WD old farm Hilux, pulling up the handbrake when one wheel is spinning sometimes got us through an obstacle that was otherwise impossible.

  10. #10
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    What I've done is cut the brakeline going to the rear wheels, split in 2, each going into a clutch master cylinder where the reservoir would normally enter it, and each rear wheel conected to the output of each cylinder. Then I've made a lever, when pushed right, it would press the right cylinder, if left, push the left cylinder.

    If left in center position, and brake paddle is push, it would just flow through cylinders and work like normaly, but if you dont touch the brake paddle, and move the lever left or right, it would activate that wheel. The harder you push, the more that wheel brakes. Works a charm...
    Vrywaring: Niks wat ek hier kwyt raak moet hoegenaamd as feite beskou word nie.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
    What I've done is cut the brakeline going to the rear wheels, split in 2, each going into a clutch master cylinder where the reservoir would normally enter it, and each rear wheel conected to the output of each cylinder. Then I've made a lever, when pushed right, it would press the right cylinder, if left, push the left cylinder.

    If left in center position, and brake paddle is push, it would just flow through cylinders and work like normaly, but if you dont touch the brake paddle, and move the lever left or right, it would activate that wheel. The harder you push, the more that wheel brakes. Works a charm...
    Goeie idee! Ek sit al hoeka met die gedagte om die Gypsy n dual-handbrake setup te gee. Vir agter is dit n baie maklike taak, aangesien die handbriek met kabels werk. Ek wil egter die voorste wiele ook via die dual handbrake beheer, en daai ene het my kop gesmokkel. Met Reenen se master cylinder truuk vir die voorste wiele, en die agterstes met die kabel.....

    Ek sal links agter en regs voor saam briek, en regs agter met links voor. Seker 95% van die tyd verloor mens grip op teenoorgestelde wiele. Die setup behoort baie goed te werk

    Wat eerste prys sal wees, is as daar n tipe "cross over" valve vir die voorste wiele kan wees sodat mens links agter en links voor saam kan briek, en andersom ook. Dit sal vir die ander 5% gevalle die truuk doen.

    Daar is een pad in die berge hier by Windhoek waar die linkerste wiele in n sloot loop waar erosie die bo-grond verwyder het, en die wiele dus op klip loop. (goeie grip) Die regterste wiele loop op los grond en klippe (min grip). Die weight transfer is ook na die linkerste wiele. As jy stadig ry in 1ste low, verloor alwee die regter kant wiele grip. In hierdie geval sal dit nuttig wees om alwee wiele op die rgterkant te kan briek, en dus die torque na die linkerste 2 wat grip het, verhoog.

    Wat ek hou van die idee, is dat die torque transfer geleidelik kan wees (met difflock, is die transfer onmiddelik na die wiel met grip) en ook beheer kan word. Jy kan dus geleidelik meer briek op die wiele wat grip verloor, tot net-net genoeg torque na die wiele gaan wat grip het om jou deur die obstacle te kry. Dit behoort minder stres op halfshafts te sit.

    Hel, daai Kabouterklimenkloutermouter van my loop klaar op plekke wat n bergbok uitasem het. Met die 4 wiel dual handbriek sal hy sekerlik n lamp paal kan uitklim

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
    What I've done is cut the brakeline going to the rear wheels, split in 2, each going into a clutch master cylinder where the reservoir would normally enter it, and each rear wheel conected to the output of each cylinder. Then I've made a lever, when pushed right, it would press the right cylinder, if left, push the left cylinder.

    If left in center position, and brake paddle is push, it would just flow through cylinders and work like normaly, but if you dont touch the brake paddle, and move the lever left or right, it would activate that wheel. The harder you push, the more that wheel brakes. Works a charm...

    Nee helsim, dis Saterdag oggend en my kop is nog stadig! Teken prentjies! Jy het mos 'n prentjie teken masjien

    As jy te lui is om prentjies te teken, stuur vir my die kontrepsie
    What a life!

  13. #13
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    Vrywaring: Niks wat ek hier kwyt raak moet hoegenaamd as feite beskou word nie.

  14. #14
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    Verstaan jy my kru prentie?

    Pure genius...
    Vrywaring: Niks wat ek hier kwyt raak moet hoegenaamd as feite beskou word nie.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
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    Thanx Dit maak meer sin vir 'n dof ou soos ek! Jou handskrif kort aandag

    Eintlik skimp ek vir 'n kit wat jy kan courier na my toe Is dit op die SFA of een van die Patrols? Die patrol neuk met daai propshaft handbriek, maar hierdie plan kan werk
    What a life!

  16. #16
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    Was op n pypkar lank teru, maar sal werk op enige single port agterrem stelsel.

    Maar deesdae se linker agter werk saam met regs voor, en anders om...,

    Daar sal dit eintlik perfek werk om oorkruis situasies te taction control.

    Patrol pickup kry lovkers voor en agter.


    Maar sy engin het sopas vasgesteek, lyk my ek het oliedruk verloor😳😳😳😢😢😢😢
    Vrywaring: Niks wat ek hier kwyt raak moet hoegenaamd as feite beskou word nie.

  17. #17
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    Moet net nie rem trap terwyl jy die lever werk nie, die sweeping seels agter die plunger se hoof seel is piekfyn met geen druk op hom, hy het dit gewoontlik vanaf resivoir, maar ek dink as jy hom pressurise met voetrem terwyl jy lever klaar ingedruk het, gaan die voetrem se druk agter die plunger n seel pop.
    Vrywaring: Niks wat ek hier kwyt raak moet hoegenaamd as feite beskou word nie.

  18. #18
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    Baie prentjies op die Google van cutting brakes....
    Nogal interresant.
    1993 Samurai. 2004 Jeep TJ Sport. V8 Lexus VVTi. - Frankenjeep.
    I'm not a nice person.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
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    Baie indrukwekkende CAD tekeninge. Ek sien jy gebruik n Mecer Motherboard

    Ek het nie eens gedink aan die remme wat in elk geval oorkruis gekoppel is nie...... Sal dalk die hele installasie nog meer aanloklik maak. Ek wil net nie iets doen wat die veiligheid van die standaard "voetbriek" kan kompromiseer nie....

    Lyk my ek kan die standaard handbriek dan behou, en dalk n aparte "vastraphefboom" langs die transmissie tonnel insit. Druk voorentoe vir Links agter en Regs voor, en trek agtertoe vir die ander twee wiele. Hmmmmm....

  20. #20
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    Ek het baie jare gelede 'n beetle-gebasseerde pypkar gebou, en het "fiddle brakes" op die handrem gesit.


    Dit het amper glad nie gewerk nie. Kon nie genoeg krag uitoefen deur die remkabels nie.


    Maar gelukkig was dit nie eintlik nodig nie omdat daardie kar meeste van sy gewig op die agterwiele gehad het.


    Ek glo egter 'n hidraulise stelsel soos Reenen hier bo verduidelik sal baie goed kan werk, maar mens moet meer as twee hande he. Ek het altyd gedink dis hoekom die challenge-ouens 'n co-driver saamry.
    Last edited by Peter Connan; 2015/11/29 at 09:03 AM.
    1996 Patrol 4.2SGL with lots of stuff to make it heavier and thus increase traction?

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