Electrickery for camping - Page 9




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  1. #161
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    Baie dankie. Nou is ek reg vir die volgende stap van evolusie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BennvdmWhk View Post
    Kierie, Cut the Schuko plug & a bit of cord of swambo's hair dryer or other kitchen appliance, "upgrade" it with a 3 pin plug & make your own lead by attaching normal lead double adapter. Even better is from old one, as may effect warranty if still covered.

    Bushpower in Midrand has them, so can also try other solar or electrical outlets
    http://www.bushpower.co.za/products.asp?pid=126

    Gotcha that is exactly what I am after. Thanks!
    Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6 Auto
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  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluffy View Post
    See how clever marketing is, we actually think the chargers are clever.

    Every charger, even the dumbest ones, taper of the charge rate to 0A as the battery reaches a high SOC.

    In fact to be more correct. The charger does nothing, the battery stops accepting charge as it reaches full charge.
    Well...it depends on its IQ whether it can "do" something. The charger does in some cases (3-step & up) fold back the output voltage to a lower (float) value.
    Eggie.

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  4. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
    Well...it depends on its IQ whether it can "do" something. The charger does in some cases (3-step & up) fold back the output voltage to a lower (float) value.

    Correct it does, but only because it has to fix up the mess it made in the first place....

    The main point however remains. Current reducing nearly to Zero is not some mysterious intelligent function performed by the charger. Its what the battery does when it is charged.

    The Charger does nothing, it sits there like a dumb donkey with a fixed output voltage waiting for the battery to take charge. The clever part comes in detecting that the battery is charged and then doing something else. (erm, folding back to float voltage)

    I don't want to belabour the point or distract from ChisF valid input, but unfortunately as highlighted by the other PBE threads alive at the moment, many of us, too many in fact, are besotted with the fancy intelligent chargers. Mores the pity, because we are being hoodwinked by clever marketing, where we may be FAR FAR better of with a piece of copper cable and an alternator.
    Cheers

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  5. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kierie View Post
    I am urgently looking for a multi plug adaptor with a Shuko (round 2 pin) plug. Shuko to SA adaptor. Exactly the same as the below link, but I don't want to buy online as I need it urgently and would prefer a walk in shop for such a small and cheap item. This adaptor will be used to connect devices using the normal 3 pin SA plug to my inverter.

    http://www.sustainable.co.za/sustain...cessories.html
    Hardware shops sell loose Shuko plugs for electric lawnmowers and then you can make your own

  6. #166
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    Outdoor Warehouse used to sell them.
    Paul

  7. #167
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    Chris, Thanks for all your effort in compiling this.

    Forgive me if I missed it, but I am looking for the size (diameter) of the thick cables for optimal charge.
    Also, could you, or the other knowledgeable guys, please address where is best to run the cables? Someone I have spoken to has suggested going through the fire wall and then running the cables inside the vehicle, perhaps under the floor boards so they don't get damaged on rough roads? My current set up was run under the vehicle by a fitment company. The wires were attached too close to the exhaust and this resulted in the wires overheating and burning a section of the wiring before the fuse blew and knocked off my CTEK 250S and my fridge.
    Last edited by Chuckzoo; 2014/12/08 at 10:06 PM.

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mistral View Post
    Outdoor Warehouse used to sell them.

    Got one at ODW thanks. Shuko plug with extension lead and SA three pin multi adaptor.
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  9. #169
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    ChrisF

    Well done and thank you for this very informative thread. Learned a few things from your write up.

    Thank you.

  10. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckzoo View Post
    Chris, Thanks for all your effort in compiling this.

    Forgive me if I missed it, but I am looking for the size (diameter) of the thick cables for optimal charge.
    Also, could you, or the other knowledgeable guys, please address where is best to run the cables? Someone I have spoken to has suggested going through the fire wall and then running the cables inside the vehicle, perhaps under the floor boards so they don't get damaged on rough roads? My current set up was run under the vehicle by a fitment company. The wires were attached too close to the exhaust and this resulted in the wires overheating and burning a section of the wiring before the fuse blew and knocked off my CTEK 250S and my fridge.
    Post 5 for the wire size - Ctek limits to 20A, thus 4mm wire is all you need. Doing a project at the moment and will use 6mm, just for that extra peace of mind.


    where to run the wires - each vehicle is different !
    - stay away from the heat
    - stay away from vibrations (this WILL shafe through the insulation)
    - put a shroud over it
    - cable tie it (to prevent those vibrations)
    - careful around moving suspension part
    - CAREFUL where the tires can throw up stones that can damage the cables

    so where possible I do go through the firewall and run it inside the vehicle - there is normally a lekker BIG rubber grommet where most of the cables pass between the cab and engine compartment. For bakkies I still go underneath ...

  11. #171
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    Default The next episode -

    The electrickery journey continues -

    How do you get from this –



    To THIS –



    In TEN DAYS ……
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  12. #172
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    From where to where?

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  13. #173
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    Project RANGER Map -

    The next leg of this journey documents the evolution of a Ford RANGER from showroom floor to the camp ground. Paul, ORE on the forum starts the next episode in the journey with: “Chris jy gaan mos die elektries vir my doen.” Note, no question mark. I was just volunteered army style.



    Fact is, this provided me with the perfect opportunity to put into practice what was said previously in the “Electrickery” thread, AND to implement various new technologies.

    In classic consulting fashion the project started around a braai – well truth be told, a slab of steak on the cast iron gas grill. Paul was here to discuss “electricity”, me being me, I asked a few questions:
    - Electricity -
    o Lights ?
    o Power points (Hella) ?
    o Solar ?
    o 220V camp site connection ?
    o Type of battery ?
    - Water ? HUH ?? Yes, what are you planning around water inside your 4x4 ?
    - Drawer system ?
    - Where and how will the fridge be placed ?
    - Gas ? Another HUH ? Yes, gas for cooking, what are your plans for this ?
    - Compressor – loose or permanent fixture ?

    All the while I am making notes of the answers, and of the unresolved items. The thought pattern being that I am trying to get clarity of EVERYTHING that has to go inside this 4x4. See, I paid the school fees and know that you can only get to some practical solution when you plan ahead. And with planning ahead I am aiming to identify those “must get to it quickly” items, and then finding the best spots for it. Who wants to unpack half the kit to get to a gas bottle or cooker top for the morning coffee .. kan mos nou nie rond kruip agter in n bakkie met n seer kop so vroeg in die more nie …

    The ELDERS project was for a complete camper unit. Project RANGER is to be the more classic “bakkie with a Roof Top Tent”. Project Ranger is a single cab Ford with a lang-bak. The custom canopy was made by Metalian. Now it must be kitted to be ready for camp grounds, and equally ready for bush camping. In my book “ready” means the layout must be such that you can use all the amenities with minimal effort. Camping should NOT be a period noted by daily unpacking of the vehicle ! Part and parcel of this approach is the ease with which you can pack and prepare the vehicle at home for any trip.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  14. #174
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    Project RANGER components -

    Thus the basic items got sorted. Henk - https://www.facebook.com/Ultimate.Overland - was kind enough to answer some questions for us. The last step was to visit Safari Centre to eye-ball some of the options that we would not be able to resolve around the braai. Four days to source the goods and ten days to finish the project … tell me again, how did I get myself into this ?

    - Electricity -
    o HCdP Mk4 Power Panel - more about this stunning panel later – 4x4Direct
    o Lights – Combined White & Yellow 12 LED lights – 4x4Direct
    o Power points (Hella) – one power point per canopy side box
    o Solar – one of 100W panel. Due to the RTT it was not possible to permanently mount the panel in the sun. The panel is transported inside the RTT, and allows the vehicle to be parked in the shade with the panel placed in the sun, using an extension lead – 4x4Direct
    o 220V camp site connection – A caravan plug was added.
    o Type of battery – we opted for a classic 105A.h DIXON from 4x4Direct.
    - Water – grey tank for minimal plastic taste, with a Shurflo water pump.
    - Fridge – Placed on a slider mounted above the drawer system.
    - Gas – custom bracket was made to fit the gas bottle inside one of the boxes.
    - Compressor – Permanent fixture



    The following suppliers deserve a mention for their outstanding service, in alphabetical order :
    - 4x4Direct – http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/ - Pieter and George were absolutely outstanding ! ALL electrical items from the HCdP panel to the lights and power points were sourced from them.
    - Metalian – http://www.metalian.co.za/ - Once again Heinz delivered on his reputation for attention to detail. I am particularly impressed in how he used existing bolt-points to install the canopy without drilling even one hole into the cab ! The finishes are simply superb.
    - Safari Centre N1 Goodwood – They supplied and fitted the RTT, awning, and slider. They also helped us with advice and we bought the water tank, pump and various other items here. There were some slight issues, they resolved it without any issues.

    And then it was my turn to try and match the service levels of these guys. Heinz you set the bar HIGH !!
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    Last edited by ChrisF; 2014/12/21 at 11:05 PM.

  15. #175
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    Sorry Chris, I could not see the pics at first. Looks impressive! Cant wait for the next post with details....

    Hilux 3.0 D4D "Goldilocks" - Rigged for overlanding
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  16. #176
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    Project RANGER water -
    Step one was to make a base to which the water tank and battery could be fixed to without drilling holes into the Ranger. A wooden base was cut to fit snugly between the cab and the slider, with wheel arch cut outs limiting sideways movement.



    Filling the water tank is one of those things that often turn into a pain, as the filler point is most often not easily accessible. Fitting a caravan water filler point turned into a sub-project all of its own. Now what’s the fun of having water and struggling to top up your whiskey glass? Time for a water pump and tap.















    I drilled a 0,5mm hole in the valve cap to prevent a vacuum in the water tank, then also added an ON/OFF switch next to the tap as an easy way to ensure the pump stays off when you don’t need water. (rubber was placed between the copper pipe and the aluminium)

    The battery was mounted next to the water tank. A battery can become a heavy missile in an accident, thus I bolt this down properly. The other danger is the possibility of shorting out the poles and causing damage or worse a vehicle fire ! Thus the upside down battery box.
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    Last edited by ChrisF; 2014/12/21 at 11:12 PM.

  17. #177
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    Project RANGER electrickery – Power INPUTS -

    Okay, this is an electrickery thread, so let’s look at the complete electrical installation starting with the three power inputs.

    From the alternator (primary battery) a pair of cables was run to the electrical panel -
    - 50A fuse at the front battery
    - 10mm square wires, both positive and negative, from the primary battery to the HCdP Mark 4 Power Panel.





    The use of “split loom tubing” really helps to tidy up the installation. We also used split loom tubing to protect the wires as it passed under the cab.

    The second power input is from the back of the Ranger, where there is a 220V caravan input plug. Was nerve racking to cut a hole into the brand new canopy !!





    From the side we have our third power input, the solar panel.



    These three power sources all feed into the Mark 4 Power Panel from HCdP –
    - http://www.hcdpelectronics.co.za/ind...&product_id=48
    - http://www.bushpower.co.za/products.asp?pid=647



    Why did we go for THIS panel ?

    It is the only product on our market that can take all three inputs into a single unit, do some clever stuff inside and use the optimal input as it becomes available – without the user having to spare it a second thought.






    Once it has this input power it then does (almost) everything you can wish for:
    - The 220V is available from a 2 point, and a 3 point plug. (If you have a 220V input at the time)
    - The 220V drives a charger for the second battery.
    - The solar is used to charge the battery.
    - The alternator power charges the battery at a maximum rate of 12A, AND it drives the fridge without reducing the charge rate to the battery.
    - The Mk4 Power Panel goes further to provide the following outputs –
    o 2 off light circuits
    o Fridge circuit (for ONE fridge only)
    o Pump circuit, for a water pump
    o Power sockets (this could potentially be used for a second fridge)

    In short, this panel provides in a single unit what would otherwise be multiple units, taking up space and causing a much more complicated system AND taking much longer to install. All for the price of a Ctek 250 S !
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    Last edited by ChrisF; 2014/12/22 at 11:33 AM.

  18. #178
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    Project RANGER electrickery – Power OUTPUTS -

    Before buying the Mk4 Power Panel I asked Henk if there were any tricks I should know about.

    Henk’s answer: “Die dokumentasie is volledig en beskrywend genoeg dat my ouma dit kan installeer …”.

    Okay, I will admit that I wondered if his ouma has an electrical degree. Fact is, the documentation IS brilliant !! And the installation truly is a breeze !





    The primary output is via a brad-harrison plug to charge the 2nd battery.

    Lights – We opted for 5 LED sets, providing white and yellow light. Must say the 12 LED units emit a lot more light than what I expected.



    Fitting it was a matter of attaching the two mounting brackets, and clipping in the light bar. Wiring was a simple matter of solder and insulation. Velcro is very handy.

    Power Points – Hella points were installed. The challenge with these installations are the exposed power points, thus we opted to install these in small boxes.

    In keeping with the times we also fitted a set of USB charger sockets.




    Water Pump – We installed a Shurflo pump with automatic pressure controlled on/off functionality. We also opted for an inline particulate filter. We installed an extra on\off switch in series, next to the tap. The wiring for this is simply from the panel output to the pump.



    Fridge – a separate set of wires and Hella power point was installed for the fridge.



    Compressor – The Mk4 panel does not have a dedicated circuit for the compressor, very understandable, since some of the twin head compressors use a LOT of power. I wired the compressor directly from the 2nd battery, by connecting it to the same Brad Harrison plug at the Panel that connects to the battery.

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  19. #179
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    Project RANGER the other stuff -
    Canopy – Metalian manufactured and installed the canopy.



    Roof Top Tent (RTT) – Paul, ORE on the forum, opted for the hard shell unit from WildEarth, provided and installed by Safari Centre - http://www.wildearth.co.za/products/rooftop-tent/



    Drawer system – A six ammo box Frontrunner slider unit was provided and installed by Safari Centre. It was pointed out before the sale that the thin wood cover of this unit is not suitable to carry heavy items. We thus installed a 22mm board, with an angle iron section in front to ensure sufficient strength.

    I also installed a 50x50 angle iron section and pull down hooks to provide best functionality of the unit.



    The Metalian canopy provides four side boxes. Paul had very clear ideas of what each side box should “do”.

    Box 1 – Wet kitchen



    Box 2 – Pantry



    Box 3 – Recovery and tools


    Box 4 – Electrical and compressor


    And the end result – a very happy Paul.
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  20. #180
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    Die setup maak mens nou jealous hoor, goed gedoen

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