Marius's Touareg R5 life thread. - Page 64




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  1. #1261
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    Hoeveel km het daai treg op, want dit klink of hy baie, en duur, probleme het. Wil nie brand bash nie, en weet jy het gese dit baie goedkoper as jy dit self doen, maar die ding het probleem op probleem. Jan alleman op straat, waar moet mens begin worry op km?

    N vriendin van my het ook nou die dag presies joune 2de hands gekoop, sy baie impressed, ek net te bang om haar te waarsku
    Ricoffy is my voorkeur keuse vir Koffie, en Toyota vir n Bakkie, en ek dra net 2 tone hemde..

  2. #1262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
    Hoeveel km het daai treg op, want dit klink of hy baie, en duur, probleme het. Wil nie brand bash nie, en weet jy het gese dit baie goedkoper as jy dit self doen, maar die ding het probleem op probleem. Jan alleman op straat, waar moet mens begin worry op km?

    N vriendin van my het ook nou die dag presies joune 2de hands gekoop, sy baie impressed, ek net te bang om haar te waarsku
    It's just about to hit 260'000km.

    The coupling isn't really a failure. Its a service item and i dont know when it was last done so now it will get done.

    That is the risk of buying second hand and the older it gets the more issues you will have. It's a man made machine and all parts have a limited lifespan. German engineering ensures that most parts outlive the car's useful life.

    Thankfully this exercise wont cost me anything at all.

    When these things happen i do get a bit dejected, but i have to just suck it up and realise that at least its not another failed engine.

    Just tell your friend to see to issues asap before they get worse. Hopefully that car has a better history than mine.

    Besides, when these things happen to my car i get to share it here and loads of people can hopefully learn from it and save some money.


    Sent from my iPad 2

  3. #1263
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    En dan is jy nie skaam om elke liewe foutjie te share nie. Party mense is te skaam om te erken dat hul keuse van voertuig ooit breek. Respek.

    As meer mense dhare, dan kan ons almal leer om uit te kyk vir die selfde failure voordat dit jou vang met broek op kniee.

    Dankie vir jou volledige verslae
    Ricoffy is my voorkeur keuse vir Koffie, en Toyota vir n Bakkie, en ek dra net 2 tone hemde..

  4. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reenen View Post
    En dan is jy nie skaam om elke liewe foutjie te share nie. Party mense is te skaam om te erken dat hul keuse van voertuig ooit breek. Respek.

    As meer mense dhare, dan kan ons almal leer om uit te kyk vir die selfde failure voordat dit jou vang met broek op kniee.

    Dankie vir jou volledige verslae
    Jip. I have made many many stupid mistakes and will continue to make them. Hopefully I can share them and save some the trouble.

    It has already come back in good karma when the members chipped in to help fund the replacement engine.

    If I wanted a basic car that doesn't break down with no luxuries etc I would have bought an old toyota/isuzu.

    By no means will I ever say that an old touareg is the best buy for the average joe. I'll recommend them as a good car. They are fantastic cars but need special attention or else they get expensive to maintain.

  5. #1265
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    Elastic drive coupling swapped.

    - Undo the nut on the engine mounting (19mm)
    - Jack up left side of engine so the engine mounting comes clear of the bolt (i used a bottle jack between the antiroll bar and the AC pump. I had a block of wood between AC pump and jack - I pumped the jack with my fingers only and it was enough to get clearance)
    - Undo the 4 bolts that hold the pendulum mount (mounting brace) to the block (one of these took me an hour to get off) - (16mm)
    - wiggle the pendulum brace downwards for access, no need to remove
    - undo the alternator bracket top 2 allen bolts (6mm allen key)
    - undo the allen bolt (also 6mm allen key) just below the elastic drive coupler (a small mirror comes handy here)
    - There should now be enough clearance to jiggle the alternator around to get the old coupling off and the new one on.

    Reverse procedure for installation.

    If you want to do the freewheel pulley as well, you will need to take the intake manifold off, loosen the two hoses coolant hoses above the alternator, and undo the powersteering banjo bolt to move the pipe out of the way for access to get the alternator out.
    Last edited by MariusFourie; 2013/10/28 at 03:24 PM.

  6. #1266
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    So, I didn't listen to that little voice in my head to change out the freewheel pulley as well.

    Car idles for 2 minutes and then....... screech....... smoke...... and I shutdown the car.

    New elastic coupling stripped as well.

    So, I have to take it all off again. (should be easier this time now that I know what to do) and replace the coupling and freewheel pulley.

    R585 for coupling from Goldwagen
    R750 for freewheel pulley from Goldwagen

    Eina blikskottel!

    And for some strange reason my bonnet catch is now not catching so I have to sort that out as well.

    And for some strange reason my ballast has now started to work. Let's see how that goes.

    All in all an interesting week. It has gone so well since the engine transplant, I shouldn't really complain about these service items. After all, the rest of the car has done 260'000 km over the last 8 years.

  7. #1267
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    Eish, bad luck. Think the part prices are not too unreasonable. Preventative maintenance is such a big factor in Touareg ownership.
    2007 Touareg 3.0 V6 TDI (Facelift, Air, Rear Diff Lock, Rear Mounted Spare)
    2008 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TDI (Multitronic)
    2009 KTM 990 Adventure (Daily Commuter & Weekend Fun)
    2012 Imagine Trailvan 4-Sleeper

    * consumption needs to be seen in the context that the vehicle is towing an Imagine Trailvan 50% of the time.


  8. #1268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kortgat View Post
    Eish, bad luck. Think the part prices are not too unreasonable. Preventative maintenance is such a big factor in Touareg ownership.
    Jip. Not a bad price at all. Just bad timing.

    I just find it very hard to believe that if that pulley freewheel system seizes (making the alternator like the old style alternator with a loose shaft that can spin in both directions) it destroys the rubber coupling so quickly.

    I can now turn the alternator internals very very easily both ways with the lightest touch and no binding at all. Feels like a new alternator so smooth is the rotation.

    I suspect the alternator spins very fast due to it's gearing and the need for it to put out it's rated 150 Amps and when you let off the throttle quickly the inertia of the alternator (I did rev the car slightly) wants to keep on spinning but the engine is slowing it down and so the coupling can't handle the torque and strips (like it's designed to do).

    See the ratio here (alternator is driven by top left gear)



    I hope my theory is correct because if I replace both items and it strips again I'm gonna strip MY coupling.... hehehe

  9. #1269
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    That freewheel clutch is to compensate for quick differences in rotational speed the alternator is experiencing at low speed and slight revving.

    With the low rpm a diesel is running at idle and low revs the alternator has to be geared higher than that of a petrol motor so that the neccesary voltage and amps can be generated.

    This high and very frequent difference in rotational speeds is such that the alternator shaft and internals will not have such a long lifespan, therefore the rubber coupling is needed to smooth out the rotational speed vibrations and the free wheel clutch is an additional smoother so that the coupling itself can last longer. Once an alternator is under load it should stop turning quickly as it generated a counter force through its electricity generation. However if an alternator is not under load the counter rotational force is low and the initria of the internals will make life difficult for the rubber coupling.

    Sort of in a nutshell.

    So begin dit...

  10. #1270
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    Nice mr! It's good to see people keeping these alive. The parts range ay GW is growing for all touareg models. Soo it will be as easy as keeping a Hilux going.

    Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
    2007 VW TOUAREG 3.0TDI
    Goldwagen Delarey ( we courier) sales.delarey@goldwagen.com
    Delarey racing developments and CNC machining ashley@drdonline.co.za

  11. #1271
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAJERO View Post
    Nice mr! It's good to see people keeping these alive. The parts range ay GW is growing for all touareg models. Soo it will be as easy as keeping a Hilux going.

    Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
    It already is. You just need to know what to look out for.


    Sent from my iPad 2

  12. #1272
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    some pics in progress of the alternator removal



    180 Amps !!!!!!!!!









    Clean EGR valve (due to 2SO? .... who knows )



    Parts and tools bucket



    supporting the engine in order to remove the pendulum engine mounting



    It's pretty tight in there. Note the thermal layer on the engine to keep hot and cold spots to a minimum and to keep engine warmer for longer after shutdown.




  13. #1273
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    My theory seems to be correct

    Source : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1277279

    1) Alternator with roller clutch built into pulley:

    This is to de-couple the alternators rotational inertia from that of the crankshaft. Because the alternator is typically geared approx 3x faster than the crank, it's rotating inertia is also refferenced to the crank via this ratio. The "clutch" is a simple PASSIVE "roller bearing clutch" (google it). This means that when the crank shaft accelerates the alternator rotor is accelerated with it, but when the crank decellerates, the alternator can "freewheel" along on its own. This massively reduces the belt load and hence wear (important now cars have LONG service intervals and the FEAD (Front End Auxilary Drive) system is heavily loaded (high elec loading and A/C load etc)

    This de-coupling of the alternator is important for two scenarios where the crankshaft undergoes rapid deceleration:

    a) Upshifts, especially with DSG transmission etc: On a road car with wide gear ratios, the crankshaft is required to slow by several thousand rpm in as little as 100ms these days!

    b) High BMEP with low cylinder count: As power and torque output increases from lower cylinder capacity and lower cylinder count, the crankshaft torsional vibration increases massively. in effect, everytime a cylinder fires the crank accelerates, and then slows again up the next compression. This kind of torsional activity can exceed 50krpm/s at high low low rpm, and would put the FEAD under huge loads, as it will be reacted into the alternators rotational inertia


    2) Alternator with "smart charge" capability
    Entirely seperate to the roller clutch for belt life maximisiation detailed above. The Battery management system uses a "colomb counting" strategy to determing the State Of Charge (SOC) of the lead acid battery, and only commands the alternator to charge it when is drops below a certain SOC (depending on a load of parameters, such as temp, vehicle speed/load etc etc). Because a claw pole alternator is in-efficient at light load (low output currents) it is more efficient to use the batteries charge storage capacity to buffer the alternators output as / when necessary. Further, this load can be used to move the engine operating point to a higher efficiency one (high BSFC point), and this brings significant benifits over a low average road load cycle like the EUDC emissions/fuel economy test cycle.
    This smart charging requires no mechanical changes to the system, the alternator rotor is still turning all the time (at approx 3x engine rpm) but the system only energises the field windings in the rotor when required. Conventional "dumb" alternators simple have a regulator that targets a constant output voltage (voltage control mode), usually 14.7v. However, smart alternators are controlled in the current domain, and (usually) the engine ecu will command an output current, that is practically independant of output voltage, but is driven by battery SOC (modelled in the ecu control system)
    good read here

    http://www.ina.de/content.ina.de/en/...14/mot3414.jsp




  14. #1274
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    Ek het baie jare terug met die VW type 3 geleer, as die engin uit is vervang jy alles, kopelaar, drukplaat, ratkas seel, generator laers, selfs die versneller kabel, ens. Jy sit niks terug wat nie 100% is nie. Jy kon nie eers die vonk proppe ruil sonder om die twee vergassers aftehaal nie.
    Danie & Marinda - die wiele is rond, dus moet hulle hardloop, net jammer ek moet werk om te oorleef
    2017 BL - Kewer B1115 - op bestelling, aflewering einde Nov 2017
    2016 Ford Fiesta Ecoboost - daaglikse ryding
    2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 DC XLT - nuwe rondloop ry ding, nou sleep ons! (2017)
    2011 Echo 4, die RUSWA-ZN - bos en kamp tyd => in die mark/te koop
    2010 Ford Ranger 2.5 DT DC XLT - rondloop ry ding met bietjie ekstra krag (Verkoop)
    2005 Chev Aveo - Afgeskryf (2016)
    2005 Opel Corsa 17DTi - Geruil (warm enjin)
    2003 Opel Corsa 17DTi - Geruil (warm enjin)
    2000 Nissan Hardbody - Geruil (pyne by die duisended)
    1998 Opel Kadett - Dogter se wiele geword in 2003 (baie warm enjin)
    1990 Datsun 1800 short wheelbase - Pa se ou plaas bakkie, na die Nissan die pad gevat het met sy probleme in 2003
    1990 Hilux 2.4D - en hy kon loop, pomp en top gewerk aan.
    1984 Opel Commondore - het gehardloop
    1983 Safary 3 karavaan - verkoop en begin tent in 2000
    1980 Ford Granada 3.0 - warm enjin afgeskryf
    1969 VW 1600 TL - geen einde nie, warm enjin en geruil
    1968 VW 1600 L - geen einde en baie warm enjin, verkoop in 1998

    .

  15. #1275
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    With a tight budget and repaying a loan from the bank close to the vehicle finance payments I am only doing the things that come to the front.

    I would love to have done more but it is what it is.

    I am not complaining. If it wasn't for the generous members of this forum, the transplant might not have happened at all.

  16. #1276
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    A vibration makes me have a furious cold sweat. Have a Vagcom scan for errors as well as injection quantity differences across the injectors.

    Also have a compression test done.

    I hope you don't walk my walk. It isn't nice!
    We had a bit of a surprise.. on the way to the VW logo event on Saturday I felt slight jerks happening at around 3000 rpm in 5th. Nothing was felt in 6th. Then on Sunday afternoon en route to Midrand I felt it again but this time in 6th gear.

    Today my wife went to Bronkhorstspruit and on the way back the jerking and stuttering was more evident.

    We took it to guys in Menlyn who used to service our cars, prior to the T. They checked with their computer and found that the gearbox software needs upgrade and something wrong with the 3rd piston / injector. The mechanic and my wife took it for a drive and more stutters and jerkings was felt.. the car stayed there for the night, as they will run a full check tomorrow.

    What is your suggestions on this limited info? It is a 2004 R5 tdi with 186457 on and a full service history with the dealers up to now. It is due for a service now, as the "service now" notification came one.

    Thanks for your help and advise on the forum. It is realoy great being able to ask technical questions and we have a full panel of proper advise givers.

  17. #1277
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    Hope it's something small. But have it fixed immediately to avoid problems.


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  18. #1278
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    Hi Bertus,don't panic, let me guess it happens under load, first at over 3000rpm and as it progresses down to around 2500rpm, always under acceleration in the higher gears? I had the same issue, this site helped me out.the answer was to "re seat"the electrical connections on the injectors, they go through numerous heat cycles and loosen up, increasing resistance, developing a miss.remove each plug carefully(they are brittle) using a feeler gauge to compress the locking tab. You will see the two pins, I bent one slightly to creat tension in the plug(like a two pin household plug) and plugged the harness back in.that was 2000kms ago. The whole job took me 2 hours, also a good opportunity to check out the canshaft for wear?
    I hope this is the problem? Keep us posted
    Cheers
    Range Rover Sport 5.0 SC
    Lotus 7 replica racecar.
    Ex R5 Touareg with air and RDL

  19. #1279
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    Have it scanned via VCDs/VagCom for errors and have a compression test done.


    Sent from my iPad 2

  20. #1280
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    Thank you so much.

    Yes, the main stuttering happens under acceleration. I will take it to have a VCD / VagCom scan and check what else pop up. The injector connection makes sense.

    The support and help is amazing.

    Thanks.

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