Marius's Touareg R5 life thread. - Page 39




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  1. #761
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    marius, those rubber drives are similar in principal to the cush drives that we have in our motorbikes. they cushion the drive and slack and lash from the chain on the hub.
    i personally think, you should with this "toerag" as they are called in the UK, change oil with the highest spec possible, change the injectors, specially number 5, use 2SO,and change the pump every 120K.

  2. #762
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    Some notes I put together for AntonvBosch that I thought I'd share here as well

    Firstly disconnect the battery under the seat. Remove the seat covers at the feet on the floor, remove the two torx bolts, slide the seat all the way forward and then tilt the seat back.

    Then take the bonnet off.
    The radiator fans need to come out. They are held in place on its big bracket by 4 clips that need to be pushed to the front of the car to allow the fan cowling to slide up before it gets removed towards the rear off the car.

    Then put some strong cardboard there to keep you from damaging the radiator when pulling the engine.
    Remove all the stuff from the engine as can be seen to be removed. It is essential to remove the covers on the front of the engine to make enough space for the engine to come out on top. The dipstick also needs to be removed in order to swivel the engine for removal, we will get to that later.
    Please take note of the following items that are missed easily.
    There is a ground cable that is attached to the front right of the car and the engine. Climb underneath and you will see it on the chassis rail.
    Take the intake manifold off for easy access to the bits underneath.
    There is also two ATF lines under the engine that is bolted to the engine close to the turbo and right side engine mounting with an allen bolt.
    Also the rear coolant pipes and electrics at the back of the engine must be checked to make sure they are loose.
    The A/C can be bolted loose with 3 long screws and left out of the way. No need to disconnect the A/C pipes. Just manoeuvre the pump carefully and store aside with rope ties without kinking the lines. (Wear eye protection – if a pipe lets go the refrigerant can take your eyes in a second)
    There is a connector below the tandem pump that mustn’t be missed as part of the wiring harness.
    For the wiring harness it is easiest to start at the starter solenoid cable and work from there. MARK EVERYTHING! The harness splits just after the round injector plug. The long split goes past the intake manifold, A/C and the around to the starter solenoid, serving the auxiliary water pump underneath the turbo as well.
    The other split goes down by the diesel filter towards the bottom and serves the oil level sensor at it’s end.

    The downpipe must be removed as well as the pipe underneath that joins onto the exhaust downpipe. The downpipe connects to the bottom pipe with three nuts – one of which must be reached via the engine bay past the turbo with a few long extensions.
    Take the engine mounting bolts off and then jack up the bell housing until you can see the engine mountings move up off their seats.
    Then get your hoist or chain block and use the mounting point by the egr cooler and the bolt hole on the front right of the engine that would have served as a bolt hole for the big black plastic engine front cover.
    Pull the engine up until you see if starts pulling the transmission up as well. Now fit a wooden block between the transmission and the cross member that fits snugly. Lower the engine until the hoist goes slack then raise the engine again just enough to take the slack but not lift the transmission of its block.
    Remove the starter (at this point the starter shield should be off as it needs to have been removed to take the downpipe out.) It is held on by 2 18mm long bolts.

    You can then remove the 6x torx bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. You can use a huge screwdriver to lever the ring gear teeth to turn the engine. Access to the bolts is easy if you use a few extensions to go underneath the turbo and turn the strong arm in the cavity between the engine and the radiator.
    Remove the dipstick if you haven’t done so already.
    Once the flex plate bolts are removed, start with the bell housing bolts. Some are 16mm and some are 18mm. Check my rebuild thread for the bell housing diagram.
    When the bell housing bolts are almost loose make sure you have the engine balance right.
    With the engine now loose, looking from the top, turn the engine about 30 degrees clockwise to get it out. Be slow and check everything. Be careful not to bump the radiator. Check the clearance of the tandem pump at the firewall lip. If you can’t get it out, then swivel the engine to get access to the tandem pump and take it off (3 bolts).

  3. #763
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    so is the treg up and running again? i saw you had started succesfully but didn't see any furtehr news from there. i hope it is...

  4. #764
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    Unfortunately its still at moptorbake. Should be done by end of the week or early next week.

  5. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    Unfortunately its still at moptorbake. Should be done by end of the week or early next week.

    What are they doing to the vehicle?
    @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
    1999 Colt Rodeo 3.0 V6 4x4-Build
    1998 Pajero Gen 2 SWB 3.0 V6 4x4-Resurrection
    1997 Ford Ranchero Outback 4.0 - Build



    SOLD
    1979 Landrover Series 3 88" Ford 3.0 V6 - Build
    1980 Landrover Range Rover 3.5 V8 - Build
    1979 Landrover S2A 109" with Chev 4.1

  6. #766
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    Fixing the roof and replacing the windscreen where the chainblock fell on it.


  7. #767
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    Windscreen out and dents repaired.

    Getting prepped for primer and paint.

    So next week I should have the treg back.

  8. #768
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    When all is said & done, you must post some pictures of the completed repair work.

    Just as a conclusion to the thread.
    @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
    1999 Colt Rodeo 3.0 V6 4x4-Build
    1998 Pajero Gen 2 SWB 3.0 V6 4x4-Resurrection
    1997 Ford Ranchero Outback 4.0 - Build



    SOLD
    1979 Landrover Series 3 88" Ford 3.0 V6 - Build
    1980 Landrover Range Rover 3.5 V8 - Build
    1979 Landrover S2A 109" with Chev 4.1

  9. #769
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    I followed up on the ombudsman today.

    Due to the bulk mail they received while their offices were closed many mails were simply lost or ignored.

    I have to resend it (which I have done) and fall back in the queue.


  10. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    I followed up on the ombudsman today.

    Due to the bulk mail they received while their offices were closed many mails were simply lost or ignored.

    I have to resend it (which I have done) and fall back in the queue.

    Wow, imagine we said that to our customers at our places of work...
    2007 Touareg 3.0 V6 TDI (Facelift, Air, Rear Diff Lock, Rear Mounted Spare)
    2008 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TDI (Multitronic)
    2009 KTM 990 Adventure (Daily Commuter & Weekend Fun)
    2012 Imagine Trailvan 4-Sleeper

    * consumption needs to be seen in the context that the vehicle is towing an Imagine Trailvan 50% of the time.


  11. #771
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    almost ready thanks to TuffStuff



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  12. #772
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    Looking good. Hope they gt the windscreen in properly. Glassfit Had to redo mine three times and it 's still not 100%. One windscreen actually cam from the factory with the mirror mount glued on upsidedown. They forced the mirror on and subsequently broke it. Made them buy me a new one, rain sensor &all.

    Careful they don't pinch that wire for your microphone running up the right A pillar. Did that to mine.
    2007 Touareg 3.0 V6 TDI (Facelift, Air, Rear Diff Lock, Rear Mounted Spare)
    2008 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TDI (Multitronic)
    2009 KTM 990 Adventure (Daily Commuter & Weekend Fun)
    2012 Imagine Trailvan 4-Sleeper

    * consumption needs to be seen in the context that the vehicle is towing an Imagine Trailvan 50% of the time.


  13. #773
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    The rain sensor mirror thing is getting replaced as part of the repair.

    I suspect it could have been re-used but I am not arguing with the assessor and repairers.

    I will make a point of asking the old one back though.

  14. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    The rain sensor mirror thing is getting replaced as part of the repair.

    I suspect it could have been re-used but I am not arguing with the assessor and repairers.

    I will make a point of asking the old one back though.
    Looking forward to seeing this Treg when it is finished.

    Chris.

  15. #775
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    so the drama continues

    The car is back but there is a problem with cylinder 5 again.

    This time it's definitely an electrical issue.

    car starts and runs fine. Put foot and she flies - nothing wrong at all.

    Cruise a few meters and she starts to vibrate.

    Scan the car

    Cylinder 5 pump jet valve n244 - implausible signal.

    Clear the code and she runs great again.

    I guess I will have to swap injector 5 with a good one from the old engine and see what happens.

    I have already taken the injector loom off, tighten the connections and reinstalled. No change.

    I took the plug off at the back of the head as well as the ecu plugs, sprayed with contact cleaner. No difference


  16. #776
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    Yes I know this is old hat, but try some 2SO.

    When we have sticky injectors, the 2SO usually gets them going again.
    LC 78 Troopie 1HD-FTE

  17. #777
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    the current tank has 2SO in albeit it's a few months old.

    I'm going to try to get some diesel purge in the filter and run it hard (Italian tune up) while keep clearing the codes.

    Failing that I'm going to swap the number 5 injector with a good one from the old engine.

  18. #778
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    Well, then it sounds like that one is toast.

    Good luck.
    LC 78 Troopie 1HD-FTE

  19. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henris View Post
    Well, then it sounds like that one is toast.

    Good luck.
    haven't done much miles. Chances of clearing itself is slim I suppose.

  20. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henris View Post
    Yes I know this is old hat, but try some 2SO.

    When we have sticky injectors, the 2SO usually gets them going again.
    mmm,

    I have stayed away from 2SO threads for months now.

    Marius bought a car with a slight missfire on cylinder number 5. I know, I test drove it for him and told him.

    Then he added 2SO and lost an engine and that cost him megabucks.

    Just saying.
    Cheers

    ZS5KAD Yeasu Ft-897D
    2 V8's a V6 and an inline 4
    The nice thing about going the extra mile - the road is never congested.

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