Marius's Touareg R5 life thread. - Page 104




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  1. #2061
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohanSlabbert View Post
    That would be interesting. Provided it can carry 900kg, I wonder how it will affect consumption. Even at 180 you are still getting 7 litres per 100km in a Prius.
    you have to take into account the energy used to put a charge in the battery.

    Also, the tyres are extremely low rolling resistance which means no grip.

    I doubt a prius that wasn't charged up first will reach 180.

  2. #2062
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    you have to take into account the energy used to put a charge in the battery.

    Also, the tyres are extremely low rolling resistance which means no grip.

    I doubt a prius that wasn't charged up first will reach 180.
    Exactly. Start with a flat battery and drive at 180 km/h for 500km.
    Cheers

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    2 V8's a V6 and an inline 4

    If youíre incompetent, you canít know youíre incompetent. . . . The skills you need to produce a right answer are exactly the skills you need to recognize what a right answer is.

  3. #2063
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    If you want economy only, get a 1.2 bluemotion polo. Those things can get sub 3l/100km if driven nicely.

  4. #2064
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    you have to take into account the energy used to put a charge in the battery.

    Also, the tyres are extremely low rolling resistance which means no grip.

    I doubt a prius that wasn't charged up first will reach 180.
    Ah hah! Yes, it will do it, for 2 or so minutes, and when the battery gets depleted it will use a fair bit more.

    Still, with a Cd of 0.25 and an efficient Atkinson cycle engine it's not that heavy even at 180
    Johan Slabbert

    My daily drive: 2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
    My Namibia platkar: 2013 Toyota Fortuner 2.5 VNT RB
    My farm donkey: 2002 Toyota Hilux 3.0 DE 4x4

  5. #2065
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    At the other end of the scale, my BMW will use 50 litres of fuel to do 100km at an indicated 265km/h, flat out against the limiter all the way.
    Johan Slabbert

    My daily drive: 2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
    My Namibia platkar: 2013 Toyota Fortuner 2.5 VNT RB
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  6. #2066
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    jip. to each his own. 8.0l/100km for a 4x4 isn't bad in my view.

    PS : The HID upgrade is awesome!

  7. #2067
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    jip. to each his own. 8.0l/100km for a 4x4 isn't bad in my view.

    PS : The HID upgrade is awesome!
    How do they compare to the factory xenons in your dad's V10?
    Johan Slabbert

    My daily drive: 2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
    My Namibia platkar: 2013 Toyota Fortuner 2.5 VNT RB
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  8. #2068
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohanSlabbert View Post
    How do they compare to the factory xenons in your dad's V10?
    I have xenons and halogens from the factory. I changed out the halogens for xenons.

    My dad has the one pair of xenons only. It has the cornering system in though. He says the light is pretty poor at night. But we haven't looked at his globes or the inside of the projector for dirt yet.

  9. #2069
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    Saturday we went to do some cleaning in our local area because the local construction companies and some private people have decided it's OK to dump their crap all over the place.

    However, to get to some off the rubbish we could try out some obstacles instead of the easy routes.

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQuABXFXOhA







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  10. #2070
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    Aircon freewheel bearing replaced (Part number 070 903 201 E). The motopart one didn't last very long. So this time I went for a more expensive INA bearing.

    Procedure

    remove boost pipe for access
    remove three 13mm bolts to loosen A/C pump (the one by the engine mounting can't be removed completely so just back it out all the way)
    You can see the three long bolts here.


    remove the two connectors on the A/C pump
    if you want to you can remove the front black engine cover for beter access but not needed (3x 16mm for that cover)
    now jiggle the pump out being careful not to bump anything too hard and do NOT kink the A/C pipes. You can have it resting against the throttle body.
    Here you can see what the pump looks like when it's jiggled out. (old picture)


    Now you can undo the 6 little bolts around the safety clutch
    Now half the safety clutch and the bearing can come off. This is what you will sit with






    remove the bearing and replace with new one. Manual specifies 85NM tightening torque which I believe is overkill as the one way bearing receives load in the direction that tightens it to the shaft.

    INA bearing




    This is from the alternator but the bearing is identical and removal thereof as well

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p52VTAnLptI


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  11. #2071
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    Saw the pictures before I started reading, and for a moment thought there were big troubles again.

    Problem with your thread is that you report every single problem, which will give the R5 a unjustified bad reputation. Others have plenty problems, but it does not find its way onto the forum.

    Admire your talent in all of this.
    2007 Touareg 3.0 V6 TDI (Facelift, Air, Rear Diff Lock, Rear Mounted Spare)
    2008 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TDI (Multitronic)
    2009 KTM 990 Adventure (Daily Commuter & Weekend Fun)
    2012 Imagine Trailvan 4-Sleeper

    * consumption needs to be seen in the context that the vehicle is towing an Imagine Trailvan 50% of the time.


  12. #2072
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    A failed bearing from a cheap pirate company (MotoPart) is not a failure in my books.

    The only failure I can think of that was bad design is the propshaft carrier. The rest of the failures were due to people making a cockup. Either myself or a useless mechanic.

    If it wasn't for the initial engine failure, the maintenance up to this point would have been on par with any other vehicle that is fast approaching 290'000km.

    It must also be noted that I am a pain with my cars. Everything must work. Many will accept the aircon that doesn't work for fear of a big bill and just carry on. I find the car pretty reliable.

    My documentation here will hopefully help someone in future to see that they can be fixed cheaply.

    For example. The A/C bearing cost me 30 minutes removal, 30 minutes install and R800 for the part.

    Had it been done at VW the bearing alone costs R1700 and the dealer would probably evacuate the system, remove the pump (maybe tell you the pump needs replacing), change the bearing and install again. Close to R4k maybe...... ?

    I would never recommend an office johnny buy such a high mileage touareg but the moderate DIY guy can keep them going very easily and cheaply provided they buy a reasonable one (unlike me )

  13. #2073
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    Keep up the good work

    2000 Ford Courier DC 2.5TD 4x4
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  14. #2074
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    Power steering pump started to moan so i changed it with the one from the old engine.

    Engine has to be braced as
    -a/c pump has to come away (3x 13mm bolts)
    - engine mounting carrier bracket has to come away (4x16mm bolts and 1x18mm nut)
    - power steering pump is 2x 16mm bolts and 21mm banjo bolt.

    Fluid is G002000. Nothing else will do. This is VERY important.

  15. #2075
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    Pump all the fluid through until completely clear ie remove return.
    2006 T5 4Motion 174HP TDI Seikel Dakar STOLEN IN KALK BAY

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    A6 3.0 Multitronic 225HP


  16. #2076
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    Yes. New fluid was part of the pump swap.

    Both front wheels in the air, couple of times left and right with steering with return pipe in bucket. Add 500ml fresh fluid and go a couple if times left and right. Then switch engine off, connect hoses and fill with fluid while turning left and right.

    Do NOT do this with wheels on the ground. You will damage the pump and maybe blow a steering rack seal.
    Last edited by MariusFourie; 2015/02/02 at 06:02 AM.

  17. #2077
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    would anybody be interested in a strip down of the old pump?

  18. #2078
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    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    would anybody be interested in a strip down of the old pump?
    For.... a paper weight?
    Sent from my iPhone


  19. #2079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel 4x4 View Post
    For.... a paper weight?
    Possibly.....

  20. #2080
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    I lost another Ballast on the headlights due to water ingress. I will have to address the ageing seals.

    I was not prepared to pay R1500 from ebay or R7k from the dealer for a ballast so I expanded my views.

    I went to the local china town and got a ballast for a D1S bulb.

    Found the positive (green wire) and ground (blue wire) and made a plan.

    PS : My wiring is done neatly. The picture is just for illustrative purposes for those that want to do the same.

    The up and down of the HID doesn't work anymore but I'm not bothered as the air suspension keeps the car level anyway. No dash warnings either so I suspect the dash warning are based on resistance or current draw.

    The chinese ballast is siliconed onto a gutted plate of the old LAD5G ballast.

    The "+" "-" and "o" is for 12v ground and "nothing" respectively on the 3 terminals.

    Chinese ballast - R560. Works a treat!




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