Suspension Pajero RHD Inner Shaft Bearing disintegrated




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  1. #1
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    Default Pajero RHD Inner Shaft Bearing disintegrated

    I changed the inner right CV boot last week and noticed some play on the receiving CV cup.

    Some inspection on the net and the workshop manuals revealed that the inner shaft bearing was the likely culprit.

    My job today was to strip the suspension for the 3rd time this month.

    bash plat off - I hate this job as it weighs a ton!
    wheel off
    top ball joint off
    top control arm off
    coilover shock spring off
    inner CV cup off
    swivel half shaft out of the way
    fabricate sliding hammer to get the inner shaft out
    what remains of the old bearings balls falls to the ground
    grind the old inner casing off carefully
    manufacture a press for the new bearing
    press bearing on
    reassemble


    MB160662 for the bearing - R107.10 from the dealer







    and a pic of the new CV boot

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  2. #2
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    Default Warning signs

    Marius, did you get any warning signs i.e. noise, vibration etc that the bearing was kaput
    I've got a slight vibration on my 1997 SWB Pajero 3.0 V6 when I slow down just before I come to a standstill. I can feel it on the steering and the gear lever shutters from left to right until I push the clutch in. Could this be the same bearing, engine/gearbox mountings, bigger wheels, muds or what

    I've replaced the swing arm on the LHS of the steering assembly as it was badly warn but it is still doing it. On very high speed (90km/h for my Shorty) I can't feel any vibration though

    Renier
    "If you can park your car and NOT turn around to look at it as you walk away, you haven't bought the right car"

    Topless Tersia - 96 J-Top SWB 3.0 V6 Pajero. Restoration completed.
    Fancy Nancy - 2009 Pajero 3.8 Liter 24 Valve V6 SOHC MIVEC ECI- Multi Engine 6G75 with 184Kw & 329 Nm
    Rocky - 1972 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab with Ford 351C 4V small block Cleveland motor. Restoration in progress.

  3. #3
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    Default

    it could be a number of things but to check the bearing is simple. Crawl in under the front right of the car.

    Look for the front right halfshaft with a CV boot at either end. The inner CV boot will have a (usually green) receiving cup that looks like it's bolted to the innershaft with 4 nuts and bolts.

    Try to move that green cup up and down and from side to side. If there is any play then that bearing has failed.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Marius, thanks for pointing it out, about to have both the inner CV boots on our shorty replaced, and will ask the mechanic to check the bearings as a precaution while it's in the workshop
    IFS is like a swambo, soft, sexy and expensive!

    Apparently I need to make the airplane noises like mommy does when I try to spoon feed you the info..

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pblaauw View Post
    Marius, thanks for pointing it out, about to have both the inner CV boots on our shorty replaced, and will ask the mechanic to check the bearings as a precaution while it's in the workshop
    Maybe check the play today so you can get the bearing in time for the cv job. When I was at the dealer I saw that I took one of only 3 in the country. No point in paying to have the suspension stripped twice (and it isn't fun stripping it twice - ask me - It's the third time this month I stripped the suspension.... )

  6. #6
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    Default

    NB :

    Remember to only tighten the control arm bolts and shock bolt once the car is resting on it's own weight.

    That way the rubber bushing are under no stress or distortion when the car is at the neutral position.

    Tightening them before will put the bushings under permanent stress when the car is at rest - and accelerate wear.

  7. #7
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    Default

    I did not have any vibrations to make me suspect this. By the looks of things this bearing has been gone for a while!

    I did however have a single clunk when giving full acceleration after coasting on the highway - I assumed it's just the aggressive engagement of the transmission or an engine/gearbox mounting or perhaps play in the drivetrain after nearly 300'000km - even though backlash tests on the propshafts are within spec of the workshop manual.

    I'm yet to see if that clunk has disappeared but at low speeds it seems to have disappeared.

    Anybody think that failed bearing could be a contributor to my fairly poor (for the 3.2) consumption?


    The bearing is a sealed bearing. It looks like this. (albeit larger than the one in the pic)



    I didn't take pics or measurements of the new one but just measured the old one now.

    Inner diameter : 35mm
    Outer diameter : 62mm
    Width : 14mm
    Markings on the orange side seal : NTN 6007LU JAPAN
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #8
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    Default

    I wonder if Bearingman will carry something that can work? I'm sure the bearings in the Gen 2 are different to your Gen 3 (although I'm no mechanic).. if it's going to be a few hundred extra, I'll have them change the bearings anyway..
    IFS is like a swambo, soft, sexy and expensive!

    Apparently I need to make the airplane noises like mommy does when I try to spoon feed you the info..

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pblaauw View Post
    I wonder if Bearingman will carry something that can work? I'm sure the bearings in the Gen 2 are different to your Gen 3 (although I'm no mechanic).. if it's going to be a few hundred extra, I'll have them change the bearings anyway..
    It's just the RHD that has that bearing. The left side has the halfshaft go directly from the knuckle to the diff.

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  10. #10
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    Default When will it end

    Thanks for the info Marius, good stuff.

    But tell me one thing please, when will we stop working on our vehicles
    It seems that it will never end. As soon as I think that I've covered all the issues on my Shorty from bumper to bumper, something else crops up. Its like almost brand new now. It took me 4 hrs the other day to remove a ball joint, eventually use a blow torch and hammer & chissel with and a grinder. It took me 12 minutes to fit the new one, eish.

    Where can I apply to write trade test as a mechanic I've got plenty practicle experience by now, just need to do the theory

    At least I am enjoying working on my Pajero.

    But this is what normally happens, you fix all the issues on your vehicle, get gatvol, then sell it. And the new owner enjoys that big time (look what you've done to your previous one)

    Renier
    "If you can park your car and NOT turn around to look at it as you walk away, you haven't bought the right car"

    Topless Tersia - 96 J-Top SWB 3.0 V6 Pajero. Restoration completed.
    Fancy Nancy - 2009 Pajero 3.8 Liter 24 Valve V6 SOHC MIVEC ECI- Multi Engine 6G75 with 184Kw & 329 Nm
    Rocky - 1972 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab with Ford 351C 4V small block Cleveland motor. Restoration in progress.

  11. #11
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    Default

    I'm keeping this one until I can buy a new one out the box. Either a new Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi with air suspension and low range or a kitted Gen4.

    If I didn't fix my own cars and had to resort to workshops my income dictates a citi golf.

    I'll carry on fixing as needs arise. It teaches me stuff and it's a lot cheaper than the payments of a similar vehicle under warranty.

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MariusFourie View Post
    I'm keeping this one until I can buy a new one out the box.
    Isn't that the truth.. Next vehicle I want is a kitted Jeep like a 4 door Rubicon or something, but also new.. Alas I suspect it will be a while..
    IFS is like a swambo, soft, sexy and expensive!

    Apparently I need to make the airplane noises like mommy does when I try to spoon feed you the info..

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